Inveronan to Kinlochlevan
Distance: 30km
My first wild camp of the trip had me wishing I had done more! I knew I only had two days left on trail and that they would most likely be paid camping spots but from the moment I unzipped my tent and looked out, I knew if I ever came back, I would want to do so much more wild camping along the way. I am not even sure I could outline the true reason why I ended up doing so many paid camping spots but I would surmise it was a combination of being my first true solo backpacking trip and wanting a sense of security along with wanting to camp with those I had met along the way instead of on my own. The zipper reached the top of its line and I stuck my head out to an amazing sunrise and towering mountains around me. The calm of the air matched how I felt! The shear success of this trip was so far beyond any expectation I could have ever had. I don’t even have the proper words to be able to explain even 1% of the emotion and experience I was having! But I am hoping this blog has done some explanation of the experience justice.
I hit the road again on another blissfully pure blue sky morning. Heading out along the tarmac it was not long before I came across what would have been a lovely camp spot beside an almost dry river beside a bridge. There was no one else there, unless they had already taken off for the day, but it would have been much more secluded than the several tents that had lined the two open wild camp fields from the night before. Taking note for a future trek, I pushed on.
Today’s travels were going to be taking me through Rannoch Moor, a vast open and exposed piece of wilderness that would allow me to see for miles. One of the hiking friends I had made had called this area “boring” and I can say without a doubt that it was far from boring. I could see how if the weather was not that great how it would make for a very difficult day but on this day the sun was shining and the beauty around me was exponentially unique. A totally different sight to that of anything I had seen to date. The main tract through here were the former carriage roads that would have connected towns. In the 1800’s Telford was commissioned to build new roads as the older ones were falling into disrepair and no longer suitable for the carriages. Such a unique way to travel through history as I made my way through the roads of the Rannoch Moor.
Before I made out into the open fields of the moor, I was surrounded by the natural forest one could only picture fantasy stories of ogres, fairies and other magical creatures. With each step, I could envision myself becoming part of this magical forest as a fairy sharing my magical skills and living in my own happily ever after. The openness of the Moor took me back in time. I felt like the world around me was so simple and there was nothing to be worried about. It made me want to find a space to set up shop and just stay there. Carefree and self-sustaining. But I knew I had so much more to see and so I pushed on towards Glencoe Resort.
Glencoe resort was a nice little spot to have a break. They had a cafe with a large seating area, camping pods and the touristy option of taking the chairlift to the top of the mountain and back down. I took advantage of the facilities, enjoyed a mocha, had a quick chat with the fam back home, charged up my battery bank and then continued on my way. Kingshouse was not too far off and I knew that it was going to be way too early to set up camp for the day. So, after a long break at Glencoe, I continued on past Kingshouse towards the infamous Devil’s Staircase.
In looking back, it would have been a much better idea to call it a day at Kingshouse and rest up. But that is the joy of not knowing what is coming and not being so attached to the map that I couldn’t enjoy what was around me. Pros and Cons I suppose. Knowing now what I know, I definitely would have stopped and taken on what was to come the next day. Or, at least taken a much longer break. Or….stop and put my feet in the lovely river at the base of the “staircase” before taking it on. On fresh legs, it would not have been that but. But the issue was I was developing some blisters on the tips of my toes, which if you have every tried to keep a bandaid on the your toe, you will know the frustration that comes with that task on its own without the joys of adding a hike to it…
The climb took about 40 minutes and it was so hot! I am the type of person to just keep pushing and so I just kept pushing. Moving one foot in front of the other to make it to the top. Switchback after switchback, slowly moving up the side of the mountain. As I often do take the time to look back behind me, this made the summit just okay. For me, a summit with only the view behind me is just meh. The trail simply continued after the summit of Devil’s Staircase and it was the views that followed that took my breath away.
There was only one spot that I came across that would have been beautiful to camp at. And, unfortunately, this spot was taken. Although it was a guy I came across the night before and had conversation with. I am sure he would have had no problem with me taking up a small piece of real estate on that spot of heaven. However, I wanted to respect his space and continued walking. The remainder of the afternoon was full of so many breathtaking moments but the pain of my feet was really getting to me and I was finding it very hard to enjoy the surroundings. I tried hard to stop and take it in and even had a moment of FaceTiming home to share. There was one particular spot that actually made me incredibly emotional. In looking back, I wish I had’ve stopped and taken more time to acknowledge and soak in that moment. But, I knew that I had to push on or find camp because taking breaks was just going to delay the ability to take the rest my feet actually needed.
Another con to not knowing the map. I was so much farther from the camping I was trying to get to than I realized. And, now I was past the point of no return. Being on the side of the mountain there were no suitable camp spots. Everything was boggy and it was just inevitable that I had to continue. My spirits were still high and my smile never left my face but my body sure was ready to call it a day.
After a gruelling 30km day, I scored the last walk-in tenting spot available at Blackwater Campsite. I set up camp and thoroughly enjoyed a well deserved shower! This campsite was wonderful. Tucked away on the outskirts of Kinlochlevan, it had clean amenities including a drying room (that they only turn on during wet weather), picnic tables, camping pods, lots of tenting space and friendly customer service. The stock of gas canisters was overflowing as well. So, for those travelling southbound, you can probably pick up free gas at this point!
I did hobble my way into town to the local grocers to get sweet treats! I wanted sugar! And, after trying and failing to find the pop I wanted, I settled for orange juice and promptly polished off a large chocolate bar and a full bag of chips! Hey….I was thru-hiking….who was counting the calories….not I!
I snuggled into my tent with a smile still plastered to my face and feet throbbing. Despite this, I was over the moon about this trip and starting to feel the sadness at how close to the end of this trip I really was and with that I closed my eyes to end my second last full day on the West Highland Way.
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